Chianti, Tuscany, Italy
Montevertine, “Le Pergole Torte” (2014)
“Harvest didn’t finish until the 19th of October in 2014—very late even in this relatively cool zone of Chianti Classico—and the summer was plagued by an excess of rain and ailments in the vineyards. However, although the ’14 Pergole Torte is not as rich and powerful as it can sometimes be, the challenges of the season are nowhere to be found in the final product. The most striking aspect of this lithe, open-hearted version of Pergole Torte is perhaps its resonance—in the absence of chubby young fruit taking up bandwidth, the bright, clean, mineral-drenched flavors ring out with chime-like clarity, creating an impression of thrilling energy and unstoppable kinesis on the palate. That said, the telltale savory whisper of young Pergole Torte is plainly evident, and the less-assertive tannins of the vintage allow for an early accessibility rare for this notoriously long-lived wine. You can find Pergole Torte that are bigger than the ’14, but you would be hard-pressed to find one more gorgeous.”
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